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Buying Used Appliances: What to Check

Buying Used Appliances: What to Check

A used washing machine or fridge can save a great deal against new, but appliances are the category where buyers most often inherit somebody else’s problem. They are heavy, awkward to return, and the faults that matter are rarely visible in a photograph. Half an hour of checking prevents nearly all of it.

Key takeaways

  • Never buy an appliance you have not seen running. This is the whole guide in one line.
  • A cheap inefficient appliance can cost more over a few years than a better one.
  • Measure the doorway and the space before you agree anything.
  • Fridges and freezers must stand upright for hours before being switched on.
  • Budget for connection — hoses, cables and fittings are rarely included.

Which appliances are worth buying used

Good used buysApproach with caution
Quality washing machines from known makersVery old fridges and freezers
Fridges and freezers under about eight yearsAnything with a known common fault
Dishwashers in good conditionCheap tumble dryers
Range cookers and quality ovensBuilt-in appliances of unknown dimensions
MicrowavesAnything gas, without professional fitting
Chest freezersAppliances stored outdoors or in damp garages
A quality machine at eight years old is frequently a better buy than a budget one at two. Build quality outlasts age in this category.

Running costs matter more than price

Appliances are one of the few categories where the purchase price is genuinely the smaller number. An inefficient fridge runs continuously for years, and the electricity it consumes can exceed what you saved buying it.

Chart comparing purchase price against running cost over five years for appliances

Illustrative comparison of purchase price against five-year running cost. Actual figures vary considerably by model, usage, tariff and country.

  • Check the energy rating on the label or by model number
  • Very old cold appliances run constantly and are the worst offenders
  • Look up the annual consumption figure for the specific model
  • Compare over five years, not on purchase price alone
  • A free old freezer is rarely free once you account for what it costs to run

Questions before you travel

  • Exact make and model number — so you can research known faults
  • Age, and whether they bought it new
  • Why they are selling — upgrading and moving are good answers
  • Is it currently plumbed in and working
  • Any faults, noises or intermittent problems
  • Full dimensions including depth with the door open
  • Whether hoses, cables and fittings are included
It was working when I disconnected it

This phrase should always prompt caution. An appliance already disconnected and standing in a garage cannot be demonstrated, and you are being asked to take the fault history entirely on trust. Ask them to reconnect it, or accept that you are gambling.

Insist on seeing it working

This is the one non-negotiable point. A machine that has been disconnected proves nothing.

  1. Arrange to view while it is still installed

    Before they disconnect it for you, not after.

  2. Run an actual cycle

    Not just switching it on. A short wash cycle reveals filling, heating, draining and spinning.

  3. Listen throughout

    Bearing noise on a spin, grinding, or an unusual pump sound.

  4. Check it reaches temperature

    Warm door glass, or a cold interior in a fridge that has been running.

  5. Look for leaks

    Underneath and around the door seal during the cycle.

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Checks by appliance type

ApplianceCheck specifically
Washing machineDrum bearings by rocking the drum, door seal condition, spin noise, filter, no rust around the detergent drawer
Fridge or freezerDoor seals grip paper, no ice build-up, compressor cycles rather than runs constantly, no smell
DishwasherSpray arms turn freely, filter clean, no standing water, door hinges firm
OvenElements glow evenly, thermostat reaches temperature, door seal and hinges, all shelves present
Tumble dryerDrum turns smoothly, heats properly, vent or condenser clear, filter intact
MicrowaveDoor seal undamaged, turntable rotates, heats a cup of water in the expected time
The paper test on door seals

Close a fridge or freezer door on a sheet of paper. If it pulls out easily, the seal has lost its grip and the appliance will work harder and cost more to run. Seals can be replaced, but factor the cost in.

Measuring and access

  • Measure the space including height, width and depth
  • Measure every doorway on the route in, and any tight turns
  • Check the appliance depth with the door open for fridges and dishwashers
  • Confirm built-in dimensions exactly, as integrated appliances vary by a few centimetres and it matters
  • Check where the services are — water, waste and power in the right place
  • Allow clearance for ventilation behind cold appliances

Transport and installation

  • Fit transit bolts in a washing machine if available, or move it very carefully
  • Keep cold appliances upright in transit wherever possible
  • Stand a fridge or freezer for several hours before switching it on, longer if it was laid down
  • Budget for new hoses — old ones perish and leaks are expensive
  • Gas appliances need professional fitting, always, without exception
  • Test on a full cycle once installed, while you are at home to watch it
Switching a fridge on too soon can destroy it

Compressor oil migrates into the cooling circuit when an appliance is tilted or laid down. Running it before that oil drains back can wreck the compressor permanently. Stand it upright for several hours at minimum, and considerably longer if it travelled on its side.

When to walk away

  • They cannot or will not demonstrate it working
  • It has been standing disconnected for an unknown period
  • There is rust, water damage or a persistent smell
  • The drum has noticeable play when rocked
  • They will not give the model number
  • It was stored outdoors or in a damp garage
  • Research shows a known expensive fault for that model

Frequently asked questions

How old is too old?

Depends on quality more than years. A well-built machine at ten years can outlast a budget one at three, though very old cold appliances are expensive to run regardless.

What if it breaks after I buy it?

In a private sale you generally have no recourse, which is exactly why seeing it run a full cycle before paying matters so much.

Can I move a fridge on its side?

Avoid it if you can. If unavoidable, stand it upright for considerably longer before switching on, ideally overnight.

Are old hoses safe to reuse?

Replace them. They are inexpensive, they perish with age, and a burst hose causes far more damage than the saving.

Is a free appliance worth taking?

Only if it is efficient and working. A very old freezer given away free can cost more in electricity than a replacement.

Should I buy built-in appliances used?

Only with exact dimensions confirmed against your space. Integrated units vary between manufacturers and a small difference makes them unusable.

The short version

See it running a full cycle before you pay. Get the model number and research known faults. Check the energy rating, because running costs outweigh purchase price. Measure every doorway. And stand a fridge upright for hours before switching it on.

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